Pyramids

The pyramids have been a tourist trap for centuries, and today they were no different. One of the guys on our dig is an Egyptian who had his friends drive us out to the pyramids, which was a huge relief -- it saved us at least some haggling, and the drivers waited until we were done so they could drive us back. We went to buy tickets and I managed to pay the student rate even though I don't have an international student card -- they let me through with my Yale ID. The other students with me initially got to pay the student rate but were hassled at the actual entrance to the Giza plateau. My security guard was nicer and let me by, no problem.

Before you go look at something like the pyramids, you realize they are big, but it was shocking to experience, in person, how huge they are. They are basically just big piles of rock for you to look at, but man are they cool. I got my obligatory "pyramid photo" that is required of every tourist:


And of course, we couldn't resist trying the other main touristy activity out there -- the camel ride. From the moment you arrive at the pyramids, you are swamped by very friendly Egyptians asking where you are from and offering you souvenirs. It's an unbelievable experience -- on one side of you some guy might be shoving his wares in your face and saying, "Postcard? Postcard?" while another grabs your sleeve, asking, "Camel ride? I promise I will give you Egyptian price, not tourist price." This is, of course, complete crap. Competition among various camel ride operators is obviously intense. We ended up being trailed by this particularly talented smooth talker named Sammy, who initially tried to charge a comparatively huge amount of money but let me haggle him down. It was hilarious to watch him shout like crazy at other salesmen who tried to approach us. I have to say I admire him.


Of course, after any ride when it's time to pay your stated price, you are also asked for tips by EVERYONE involved, from the little boy who holds your camel to the tout himself. Sammy wanted to take us to a "papyrus factory," where we would undoubtedly have been encouraged to make purchases so that he could earn commission, but we refused. It's like a crazy game where you have to be firm and they have to try to sweet talk you (or guilt you). But we got a pretty long ride all around the pyramids, had a look at the Sphinx, and all the good stuff you would expect. I'm glad I did it!


Right now I'm sitting in one of Cairo's many nice coffee shops, which are clearly where people hang out. There are a few with in walking distance of our hotel, so now I know where to spend down time. Hopefully I'll be posting again next week! (We are planning to go to Coptic Cairo, and I am EXCITED.)

But tonight? More paperwork. And tomorrow at 4 a.m. I'll be up and getting ready to dig some more!